Acne Marks vs Acne Scars: Which Do You Actually Have?

Most 'acne scars' clients bring to us are actually post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH) — flat brown or red marks. These fade with topicals alone.

The finger test

Stretch the skin gently. If the mark disappears when the skin flattens, it's a mark, not a scar. Scars leave visible texture change.

Marks: what works

Vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, SPF 50 daily. Peels accelerate fading. Typical timeline: 8–16 weeks.

Scars: what works

Microneedling (rolling scars), TCA CROSS (ice-pick), subcision (tethered), PRP add-on. Requires 4–8 sessions.

Combination cases

Most acne clients have both — plan for pigmentation first, then structural scar work.